Windshield jig sent to Alf Gapper to fabricate frame for custom fit.
Too many compound curves to make from one piece to hit target of existing holes on the scuttle. I made it in two pieces and brazed them together.
Fitting Alf’s frame without scratching the paintwork.
I made the glass jigs from cardboard and got local glass shop to make the windshields out of ¼” thick auto safety glass.
The original exhaust cutout’s on the mudguards were too high so I riveted 0.032”stainless steel sheets to cover them and opened up new cutouts and machine turned them.
I made the mudguard stay supports from ash pieces held down with U clamps.
The wheel spokes were in very poor condition, I send them to Woody’s Wheel Works in Denver, they bead blasted, re-spoked, trued and powder coated them. www.woodyswheelworks.com
I made the top badge out of a Crown Royal coaster base and as the club had run out of the MTWC badge I made that out of scrap aluminum pieces and printed on photo paper and poured EasyCast clear casting epoxy over them.
Evinrude Johnson 586288 585062 395207 (for 150 to 175 HP motors) on Ebay for $62.00 each, used with Morris Minor 104 tooth ring gear. Must partially cut off mounting spine and as the Johnson starter has a smaller diameter it must be shimmed to fit in mog starter housing.
Made out of a joggled 0.060” aluminum plate, it holds a piece of replaceable oil absorbent material. Rebuilt or old gearbox they all seep oil, this way I will not leave mog droppings behind.
Made from 0.100” thick 6061 “O” condition sheet.
The turn signal is the green switch with light (ex-aileron trim on the DHC4 Caribou), the red switches are for the horn (ex- TX & intercom on the DHC4 Caribou), the original mog switch also works.
There is absolutely no good reason to have these except that they look cool.
I modified this Healey tach, it needs a little more dampening and it indicates about 150-rpm too high but it will do for now.
It turns out that I am not much of an electrician, the ammeter should have worked (in theory) but alas it only shows discharge! It meant running another heavy wire direct from the alternator to the confounded gauge which I refuse to do, so I decided to install a voltmeter but not any voltmeter. As an "homage" to the great man I bought a cheap Chinese made unit and voilà!
These flip-up engine starter buttons were used on Spitfire’s and most British built aircraft in WWII. Naturally, I have one on the Spitfire Mog I have regular start button (for everyday use) hidden from view on the lower aft face of the dash.
Smith MK II L4/37 rim wind RAF 8-day aircraft clock (dated 1936), these were used on early Spit’s but later replaced by the fancy (and expensive) Smiths MKIII "time of trip" 8-day clocks with Swiss LeCoultre movement. As the war dragged on the RAF went back to the rim wind 6A/1002 type 8-day clocks.
On the left, The famous and most sought after Smiths MKIII Time of Trip Swiss LeCoultre 8-day clock. I got it for this project but found that It was too big to install in the mog. On the right, the standard Smiths MK II RAF WWII 8-day rim wind aircraft (6A/1002) clock.
The main exhaust pipes were in pretty good shape so I decided to use them. The only problem was someone had cut 1” slits on the ends so I got these Harley Panhead exhaust pipe fins and rolled a couple of SS shims to fit and clamp down and cover the cuts.